Muscat does not try to impress you from the air. It is a city of low white buildings strung between mountains and the Gulf of Oman, and it rewards visitors who are willing to slow down to its speed.
Walk the corniche
Start at Mutrah in the late afternoon. The corniche curves along the harbour, fishermen mend nets, and the souq behind it smells of frankincense and sandalwood. Go in without a plan and leave with something you did not know you needed.
See the opera house
The Royal Opera House Muscat opened in 2011 and is worth a visit even without a ticket. Its marble halls and carved wood show how well modern Oman can do ceremony without losing restraint.
Visit the Grand Mosque early
The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque welcomes visitors in the morning. Dress modestly, arrive early, and give yourself time in the courtyards, where the light is at its best before the heat.
Leave time for the coast
The beaches south of the city are wide and quiet. Take a boat along the coast in the afternoon and you may share the water with dolphins. Back in town, dinner is late and unhurried, which by now will suit you perfectly.