From the lane, a riad gives nothing away: a plain wall, a heavy door, perhaps a brass knocker worn smooth. Step inside and the noise of the medina drops away. There is a courtyard open to the sky, a fountain or a small pool, and citrus trees whose shade moves across the tiles through the day.
The word riad refers to the garden at the heart of the house, and the old medina of Marrakech, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is full of them. Over the past two decades hundreds were restored as guesthouses, and not all of the restorations were kind.
The best ones resisted the temptation to fill every surface. They kept the proportions of a family house, the tadelakt plaster that glows in low light, and staff who remember how you take your tea.
In the evening, walk to Jemaa el-Fna as the food stalls light their grills and the storytellers gather a crowd. Then walk back through the lanes, push open the heavy door, and enjoy the silence you have just earned.