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In Praise of the Levantine Breakfast

Man’oushe, labneh, foul and sweet tea: the meal that sets the pace of a Beirut morning.

Flatbread baked with za’atar and olive oil
Man’oushe, straight from the oven.Alpha from Melbourne, Australia, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia

A Levantine breakfast is not a meal you eat quickly. It arrives in small plates and keeps arriving, and the only sensible response is to slow down.

At its heart is bread. Man’oushe comes from the bakery still blistered from the oven, spread with za’atar and olive oil or with soft cheese. Beside it, labneh drizzled with oil, a bowl of foul mashed with lemon and garlic, olives, tomatoes, cucumber and a handful of mint.

Flatbread baked with za’atar and olive oil
Flatbread baked with za’atar and olive oil.

There is a rhythm to it. You tear bread, you scoop, you pass a plate across the table, you pour more tea. Conversation fills the gaps between mouthfuls, and nobody checks the time.

Breakfast here is a social occasion that happens to involve food.

The neighbourhood bakery is part of the ritual. People queue with their own toppings, chat while the dough goes in, and walk home with a warm paper bag. It is one of the most generous ways to start a day, and one of the cheapest.